It astounds me that it is possible to wake up in Paris, and fall asleep in your own bed. Of course, it does make for a fairly long travel day. That wake up was 20 hours ago, and my body thinks it's 3am right now. I will probably yield to it and turn in as soon as I finish here.
The last day in Paris was quiet and sweet. After a late night at the Eiffel Tower, we slept in. Our final museum was the Musee L'Orangerie. It was a delight! Most European Palaces in the nineteenth century had "orangeries" (greenhouses) to produce fresh citrus fruits and blossoms for winter bouquets. The Orangery at the Tuilleries is unique in that it has two oval rooms. Claude Monet produced a total of eight canvases of waterlilies to fill these two rooms floor to ceiling, door to door. The effect is astounding! Some years ago, some practical minded business person decided that it would be economically expedient to add a second story (above ground) to the Orangery so as to expand display space. The glass ceiling was torn out and a second story added. Purists were indignant. They contended that Monet would never have poured himself into these works that meant so much to him if he had suspected that someday they would be robbed of the natural light that he so revered...and that he anticipated being a part of the experience. In a remarkable display of commitment to artistic vision and integrity, the decision was
made to remove the upper story and reinstall the glass ceiling. It has been a lengthy process and the museum was closed because of it when last we visited Paris. It is finished now, and it is glorious. I got to watch the magic happen I was studying one particularly interesting group of waterlilies when all of a sudden the colors began to deepen...a cloud was passing over the sun...the painting was completely transformed. Moments later, the cloud moved on and the light returned to the painting. I couldn't stop the tears as I stood there imagining Monet watching that same spectacle...thinking of the millions who would see the magic happen just like he had.
There is a second floor BELOW the first where a number of impressionist and post-impressionist works are displayed--Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, Cezanne, etc.... And there are some great sculptures out in the courtyard. The one above is "The Kiss" by Rodin. The museum is set in the corner of the Jardin de Tuilleries, just up from the Louvre, and it is lovely. I couldn't resist photographing the lavender garden. I have included a couple of shots here. I wish I could send you the fragrance. When the breeze stirred the plants, the aroma was intoxicating.
We had a late lunch at a sidewalk cafe along the Champs Elysee, then returned to our hotel for a brief rest before a visit to our "old neighborhood"--the Marais district where we had stayed last time we were in Paris. We looked for our old boulangerie and our previous hotel, and had supper at an Asian restaurant where we had gotten takeout several times. We also did a bit of shopping. My favorite purchase is a lovely new perfume that's lavender based--made in Provence--it is divine.
It's good to be home. There are new flowers blooming. My tomatoes have gotten so big they have broken some of their supports. The basil is huge. Time for homemade pesto--lots of it.
can't wait to talk about it once you get some REST.
Posted by: Nina | 26 June 2007 at 09:15 PM
ditto to neens. also neens, more purple flowers i hope you noted them ;o) we'll fill you, shelia, in on the story soon. i love you.
Posted by: rie | 26 June 2007 at 09:50 PM
Welcome home to you too!
Posted by: Laura | 27 June 2007 at 09:38 AM
Welcome home. Sounds like a wonderful experience.
You all were missed.
C
Posted by: Chad Jarnagin | 27 June 2007 at 05:39 PM
we missed you and I'm glad you are home. It was such a treat to read your writing - almost as good as being there. It's been 8 years since I have been to Europe and that's way too long! Your writing is so beautiful it allowed us to experience the days with you.
Rest and enjoy being home!
Kathy
Posted by: kathy king | 27 June 2007 at 10:30 PM
Welcome back!! Looks like you guys had an awesome trip!
Posted by: Tyler | 27 June 2007 at 10:31 PM
welcome back, it was long diary of trip details btw :)
Posted by: desh | 28 June 2007 at 04:23 AM